From "Creed," by Dom Helder Cámara

I want to believe that the whole world

Is my home, the field I sow,

And that all reap what all have sown.

I will not believe that I can combat oppression out there

If I tolerate injustice here.

I want to believe that what is right

Is the same here and there

And that I will not be free

While even one human being is excluded.

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Beirut Bids Salaam Alaykum to The Backwards West

Some initial remarks on arriving in Beirut.
1. You're not going to see too many pictures from this experience, sorry. I'm less inclined to play tourist in a place where I want to attract as little attention as possible.
2. Arrival went smoothly, other than depression from my obvious reluctance to leave Erasmus/SanSe, which made me rather glum, even in my one-day break in Budapest. I didn't even have to pay for a Lebanese visa upon entering the Beirut airport. And as soon as I emerged from customs, I saw my name with SINARC in welcoming letters on a sign held by a smiley driver, who was waiting with 5 other weary American students.
3. I'm not deep in enemy territory per se. Not only because we're not enemies, but also because:
...Beirut is the most "western" city in the ME, often called "the local Paris." Very few Muslims wear veils, plenty of women go to universities (although according to some female exchange students, the local ones are often here to look for husbands), night clubs and "USA grocery stores" cover the main streets like Hamra and Istaklal.
...I'm at an American university hanging out with American students (and some Brits), the majority of whom are female, and many of those total gringas like me(if you don't know that term, do yourself a favor and google it). So I fit right in, and am separate from true Lebanese culture in many ways. Or, if you prefer, I'm experiencing it more safely.
There are dumpsters, beggars, broken buildings, hunger, and dirty streets. That's called poverty. You will find it anywhere outside the upper-class bubbles where you're accustomed to living. There are also buff, dark men dressed in camoflauge and black berets with guns. That's called security, believe it or not. I feel safe around them and they are very hospitable.
Speaking of hospitality, I have experienced it to the max here: the Australian-Lebanese family who helped me get through customs, the first store owner I talked to, the cashier at BarBar (بربر) the the dorm director Samir (that dirty maverick is so much fun; he will be the subject of many blogs), the elementary Arabic professor Tarif. I suppose my favorite story is the market owner, who I will definitely go to meet again. I admit I am blinded by stereotypes and the like, so when I walked in wanting to buy a bottle of water with no idea how to communicate with him, I was expecting impatience, or at least blank stares. Nope, all smiles. His English wasn't very good, but he spoke it (hey, USA, we are so behind...learn another language...better yet, teach your children to value it). "Where are you from?" "The United States," I attempted. "Beautiful country," he replied sincerely. "You are always welcome; thank you for coming!" Baffled, I thanked him, promised to return, and ran to catch up with my roommates.

All of this warmfuzzy amid CNN's reporting "DEATH TO AMERICA", friends and family gasping at the realization that I was going to Lebanon, and an increasingly Muslim world. It's time we opened our mind, folks. The less we give in to fear, the less there is to fear. And, according to what I have seen in 24 hours, we exaggerate anyway. We're the ones who are confused, and at times, blind.

A tip. If you ever feel unsafe in the Middle East, or around Arabs, begin with salaam alaykum. It means peace be with you, and it will always bring a smile.

3 comments:

  1. What a difference from SanSe, such fun to read!
    Meis

    ReplyDelete
  2. can't wait for new stories from u
    Taty.

    ReplyDelete
  3. What a nice story to read. I miss you Heather.

    Love your cousin,
    Jessy

    ReplyDelete